Mike's Journal

Desert Sunrise

Day 8 – Kirkwood, California to Genoa, Nevada
40 miles.

Shortly after leaving our campsite near Lake Kirkwood it becomes clear that I am the filthiest I have ever been. It’s been precisely five days since I’ve showered. I’m really dirty even though Jeff and I make a great effort to maintain a presentable appearance / smell. Since we’ve concluded that there is no way we can afford to stay in hotels with showers we’ve developed a cleanliness strategy. This includes a daily "wash" with handy-wipes and a separation of riding and “hang out” clothes. Still I have a zit on the tip of my finger and I crave a shower.

In the morning Jeff and I climb up over the mountain pass at 8,500ft and descend 3,000ft through lush green meadows into the Carson Valley. We enter Nevada, and with the border crossing I feel noticeably closer to Maine.

Near dusk we ride through Genoa and stop in at Nevada’s oldest bar. Fast friends are made with Ed, Donna, and Mike. Mike and I discuss many things; at one point he directs his gaze to the narrow street in front of the bar and wonders aloud how many men may have died out there; shootouts, duals, fights over women. History. Blood in the sand.

Day 9
45 miles, Minden to somewhere out in the desert near Stage Coach

We camp in Ed and Donna’s front yard and the sunset is spectacular! Rich oranges and reds over black silhouetted mountain-tops. In the morning we wake, shower, do laundry, and spend time talking with Ed. He is a Vietnam Vet, Hells Angel, and wonderful man. He offers us juice, toast, and coffee. He introduces us to his pets; Ruby, the amazingly large bull-dog pictured above, Jeremiah, the eight week old bulldog puppy, and Precious the potbellied pig. Ed explains that Ruby has a thyroid condition. She is the fattest animal I have ever seen that walks on four legs.

Ed shares more stories of, world travel, past wives, weeks spent with Sports Illustrated swim-suit models, and his children. He is a striking individual.

Jeff and I depart around 11:00, spend time in Carson City and both begin to feel feverish. I wonder if we have food poisoning. When we can’t come up with any questionable food I decide it’s just trouble from the heat… until I remember Ruby. Is it possible that we caught her thyroid condition? What if we end up looking like seals? How would we get to Maine?

The desert is overwhelming in a poetic way. We ride till sunset and pull off along hwy 50 to camp. 80% of Nevada is public land.

Day 10

The desert sunrise is stunning; we pack up, swim in a lake, stop to eat and write in Fallon and head off again; 400 miles ‘til Utah.

Posted by Mike at June 13, 2004 03:52 PM